Haute Couture, 2020

Haute couture in French stands for high dressmaking. It is the process of making high quality clothing by hand. The very first couturiers originated from France of course dating back to the 1850’s. Once a year, fashions most prestigious well-known brands meet in Paris for the spectacular Haute Couture Fashion week.

This year’s fashion week took place at the end of January and met all expectations viewers had (viewers of Instagram I meanlike mois). From Iris Van Herpens almost architectural dresses to Jean Paul Gaultiers theatrical show this year’s haute couture week was one for the books.

Couture week started strong with Schiaparelli’s quirky creations ranging from all over body embellishments to extravagant colourful gowns. Schiaparelli is known for his ability to establish already existing patterns from nature but make it couture. You won’t come across typical patterns leopard, cow, zebra patterns but rather a blazer embellished in frog skin pattern, a tube top made of ladybug resembling beads, a dress with small black dots on it which are not polka dots but ants.

Since Pierpaolo Piccioli became creative director of Valentino, sales of waterproof mascara have *not* coincidentally increased the day before each of his shows. People actually leave in tears - just like imperial students leaving their exam venue. But better dressed. And in Paris. This year Piccioli stayed true to Maison Valentinos identity by bringing a literal explosion of colour to the runway in voluminous gowns. Colour blocking, massive bows and heavy beautiful embellishments were strong elements of the show. Piccioli made a bold move by introducing eccentric extremely long earrings - longer than my last relationship to haute couture, questionable but okay. Aduta Kech emotionally closed this show wearing a jaw dropping baby pink feather gown and yes people left in tears. Google it if you don’t believe me.

Jean Paul Gaultier one of the biggest names in fashion, an icon, a master, a legend; announced that this year’s couture show would be his last one. It was an hour long and it VERY appropriately took place in a theatre. I could write a proper essay on this but all I'm gonna say is: If Coco Rocha dressed in madras print, plaid and feather, dancing a ballete-esque Scottish folk hybrid dance TO Missy Elliot music in the background, doesn’t summarise Galiano's aesthetic... I don't know what else does. Big models such as Karlie Kloss, Irina Shayk, the Hadids and the corset queen herself: Dita Von F* Tease where some of the many legends seen parading Gaultiers last couture creations. Gaultier is known to empower the female body by accentuating the female breast in his ICONIC cone bras – circa Madonna 1990’s.

Givenchy, another well-known fashion house also produces a couture line once a year. Kaia Gerber (Cindy Crawfords daughter for all illiterates out there) closed the show with a dramatic bridal looking gown and a hat resembling papier-mâché in my childish eyes. Which raises the question: should doing something extreme (a nice word for weird) be applauded in fashion only because it’s something different?

Not all fashion houses create couture collections. Most recent addition to haute couture week last year was Olivier Rousteing, the creative director of Balmain. This was heavily criticised maybe explaining his absence this year?Giambatista Valli this year did not take part in a catwalk but he did appropriately present his couture line in a proper art exhibition space as this year’s line was – once again - fine art. Valli is known for his voluminous toulle dresses the past few years since the goddess herself:Rihanna, famously wore a humongous pink one to the 2015 Grammys. This year Valli took the toulle puffy gowns to another length *literally*. I swear the dresses probably don’t even fit in my London apartment.

Although not a couture line Jacquemus showcased his line «L’annee 97» which paid tribute to his late mother, 1997 being the first time he made a dress for his mother. Jacquemus rose dramatically in popularity when he took over the fashion world with his tiny (tiny). bags which barely fit anything inside, are as functional as a necklace but are sold out globally. Raising another question about modern fashion: Practicality VS A good outfit? Wearing heels in Londons wet cold streets is an actual nightmare but young people (if you expected to read “young women” then get with the program, everyone can wear whatever they want)like myself do so, because “ITS FASHION BRENDA LOOK IT UP”. On that note stay tuned for our next fashion week cover in mid-February. Au revoir mon amours!